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Upgrading a Propane Stove / Replacing Teak Plugs |
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Written by Staff of Quadrant Marine
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 Upgrading a Propane Stove
I have a 1977 C&C 30 sailboat. It has the original propane stove in place, but I want to upgrade to a newer model with an oven. What do I need to do to install it correctly?
There are a few things to consider before embarking on this task. You did not mention if your boat had an oven in place or just a stovetop. Many production boats were built with a stovetop only, but with the joinery work built to take an optional stove with oven.
We’ll assume you don’t have to do a major renovation to make room for your new unit. If so, that’s another story.
When looking at replacement stoves, you will need to be certain about the space between the stove/oven and the sides and back of the cutout area. Most manufacturers of new combination stoves will have different sizes depending on vessel size and accommodations and are available in American and European sizes; American ones are larger than their
European counterparts.
Be sure that you have enough room between the sides and back of the cutout for the “gimbal” to swing the stove without touching/rubbing on the back/hull side. If your existing stove does not have a gimballed mount (though being a sailboat I would think it does), then you will need to centre the gimbal mount to allow the arc of the stove to clear any obstructions and—very important—give specified clearance for the oven vent in the back. The mounting instructions from the manufacturers are very good in this regard and should be followed. Sometimes, creating a cardboard template cutout to the dimensions of the stove can ease the measurement and gimbal location process.
If a gimballed stove is being replaced with a new one, then the existing hose might be usable. If a non-gimballed stove is being replaced with a gimballed one, then it is unlikely that the existing hose can be used. If the existing hose doesn’t fit, then you must replace the entire hose, all the way to your propane locker. This is very important! ABYC standards and common safe practice forbid any kind of joints, T’s or other plumbing in a marine propane line. Don’t mess with this rule! You should have a proper new line made up by a professional gas fitter. This is not expensive and is one of the best ways to protect yourself from potential life-threatening disasters.
(We’re not trying to terrify you, but keep in mind that propane, next to gasoline fumes, is the most dangerous substance you can have in your boat. Propane appliances are safe when the equipment is properly installed and well maintained, but can turn the hull into a bomb if any quantity gets loose. Fortunately propane is made to stink. The strong smell of gas inside a boat is an emergency situation; treat it with great respect.)
Be sure that when the stove swings on the gimbal (all the way) the propane hose is not compromised in any way. No strains, kinks, rubbing on corners, etc.
When all is shipshape, turn on the pressure, take some lightly diluted liquid dish soap and mop it around the propane fittings where connections have been made. If any bubbles appear when the system is pressurized, turn off the tank at once and correct the problem.
If in doubt have a professional check the gas fittings. Lastly, if you don’t have an LPG sniffer on board, this would be an opportune time to install one. Many insurance companies require them.
Replacing Teak Plugs
The teak plugs on the exterior of my cap rails are in need of replacement and show signs of leaking below. What can I do to fix this? Is there a quick repair available or will I have to replace them all?
The short answer to your second question is no, there is no quick fix. Time and loving care are the order of the day. A cover up job will only look good for a short period of time, as the trapped moisture will certainly seep back through.
The answer to your first question is a bit more complicated. The only way to deal with failing teak plugs is to remove them and replace them with new ones. To remove the old plugs, use a suitably sized “Forstner” bit; half-inch plugs will need a half-inch Forstner bit. Be cautious when drilling them out so that you don’t damage the bit or any bolt/screw heads below. Once the old plugs are removed, be certain that all the old materials/glues/epoxies are removed as well.
New teak plugs are available from your local chandlery and are not expensive. Otherwise, it’s easy to make your own with a plug cutter and some scraps of teak.
When installing the new plugs you’ll need an adhesive to hold them in place. For exterior plugs, use a good quality epoxy (i.e., West System 105) with enough thickener in it to give it body. For interior work, a good wood glue will suffice. Be sure to remove any excess glue, especially epoxy, as this can be very difficult to sand after curing.
Put a bit of adhesive in the hole and some around the sides of the plug. Tap into place gently with a light hammer until the plug bottoms out, leaving the rest of the plug standing proud until the glue is properly cured. Saw off the excess just above the surface; then sand until fair.
You’ll have to give the whole surface a good sanding as well; otherwise you’ll have lighter spots surrounding the new plugs.
For exterior teak rails a UV-protective finish must be applied at the earliest convenience, as epoxy will degrade when exposed to UV rays. Interior teak can be varnished or oiled with your product of choice.
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