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Varnishing Around Handrails |
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Written by Staff of the Quadrant Marine Institute
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 For an easy fix, cut masking tape to match the diameter of the handrail base.
A. Yes, it can be frustrating to see varnish bleeding onto your gelcoat. It spoils the effect of the good job you’ve done with the rails.
There are two methods for dealing with this problem. The first is less difficult but may not solve the entire problem; the second will work every time but is certainly more time-consuming.
The first method is to take some wide masking tape (the long-lasting type) and a plastic cup (or the lid of a jar, for example) with the same diameter as the base of your handrail and trace an arc starting at the edge of the tape and arching back to the same edge. Then cut out the semicircle. Next, affix the tape to the deck radius of the base; you’ll need two pieces for each handrail base. Then mask the remainder of the base as normal.
The next step is take a toothpick and press the tape into the diamond pattern next to the base to remove any gaps. You may need to tape these twice, as the first layer of tape may deform, exposing some of the non-skid. Note that this method may not stop all of the finish from creeping in, but it will do in most cases. Once the masking is complete, refinish as you normally would with your preferred finish. It’s important to try to keep the brush relatively “dry” when varnishing close to the tape, and prevent varnish from “running” down to the deck, where it will want to flow under the tape. Multiple thin coats—versus a few thick coats—of finish will assist in this process. Treat the tape as a last line of defense for the finish.
The second method is to remove the handrail completely and refinish away from the boat. To do this, you will need to drill out the plugs (if any) with a “forstner” bit and remove the screws attaching the handrail. After you have refinished your handrail, refasten the screws and install new teak plugs if necessary with thickened epoxy and wipe off any residue. (See ask the pros, January 2008.)
Once the epoxy has cured, cut off the excess teak plug with a fine-toothed saw or sharp hand chisel, being careful not to gouge the teak plug lower than the handrail itself. Sand the plug smooth and apply your finish to the plug areas. This method will take a lot more effort on your part but will certainly keep the finish off your decks. An additional advantage is that you can sand and seal the difficult to reach underside of the rail and the part that contacts the deck, which helps keep water from “wicking” up into the wood and lifting the varnish.
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Ask The Pros 
