Tumbo Island

Find your own bit of solitude

At the southern tip of the Gulf Islands, overlooking the American border, lays Tumbo and Cabbage islands. The two islands attract all kinds of boaters due to the protected anchorage that lays between them, the backcountry camping sites and their proximity to Vancouver, Sidney and the American San Juans.

We approached Tumbo from the south. Our Tartan 42 barrelled down Boundary Pass under sail on a close reach in the localised thermal winds that were accentuated by the topography of Saturna Island’s rocky cliffs. We tacked between the freighters anchored in Boundary Pass, being careful to avoid the vessel no go zone to port. An orca sanctuary zone lies off the southern side of Saturna Island, off East Point and Narvaez Bay. We overheard the monitoring boat on channel 16 hailing another vessel that had entered this area meant to help protect the Southern Resident orcas. This was the first time I had navigated these waters since this no go zone had been enforced in 2019 and although we were keen to stay away from the area for the sake of the whales, in a poor attempt to reef sails with the quickly building wind, we danced closer to the edge of the line than I would have liked and it wasn’t long until I saw the monitoring vessel mirroring our every move. We reduced sail area and fell off the wind once more, thankfully avoiding the scolding of the monitor boat.

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The afternoon winds were building and the tide was about to switch to a flood, so we were anxious to cross the bar that lies to the south of Tumbo Island—known to create some messy chop when wind and current are opposed. Summer in the Gulf Islands can be busy, channels and sounds becoming highways to tourists and locals alike, both enjoying some of the best cruising grounds on the British Columbia coastline. In an attempt to find our own bit of solitude after the previous night’s hectic (albeit enjoyable) stay in Montague Harbour, we decided to drop our hook on the northeast side of Tumbo—an open anchorage that is noted as a day use anchorage in Navionics and most guidebooks, as it is exposed to summer winds and freighter wake. The summer high pressure system had been consistent and the forecast didn’t indicate anything different. We decided to take our chances for the night and dropped our hook in about 40 feet in shingle bottom.

Another sailboat shared the large anchorage with us, but by late afternoon they had pulled up anchor, leaving us to swing on the hook by ourselves. A slight swell had us bobbing in the bay and the wind went light by mid-afternoon. With the weather settled and the anchor hooked, we hopped in the dinghy and headed to the rocky shoreline to explore and stretch our sailor legs. A rope swing lured us toward the trailhead and we plodded along the north side of the island, enjoying the scenes. Three small wood buildings, with windows boarded, gave us an insight into the rich history of the island. Now owned and managed by Parks Canada as part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, Tumbo was once a homestead, a coal mine, and even a mink farm in the 1920s.

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Wafts of rosemary filled our noses and long golden grass tickled our ankles as we continued through the old orchard. From a previous visit in October, I recognized the orchard trees to be Quince, which provide plenty of golden fruit come autumn. A wetland runs through the centre of the island where dozens of Canadian Geese had made themselves at home. We reached the west side of the island overlooking the protected anchorage, Reef Harbour, and found shade under a beautiful Garry oak tree. The anchorage was a joyous sight, full of people enjoying the summer afternoon. Reef Harbour is a great option for visiting boaters, with 10 moorings that get snagged quickly on weekends in summer months. It’s easy to see why as there is a beautiful sandy beach that welcomes kayakers, campers and picnickers. Moorings are $14 a night (self-pay) during the summer and there is plenty of room for anchoring in good holding, too. The harbour is well protected from the southeast winds, but open to the northwest. The activity at Cabbage Island looked like fun, but we were happy to remain onlookers and we retreated back to our peaceful bay after a short rest.

The barbecue was calling and our stomachs were rumbling, so we wandered off in the direction of the boat. Footloose sat calmly at anchor; picturesque Mount Baker looming in the background. Evening fell upon us and the Olympic Mountains seemed to be getting closer as the light faded. The sunset was just as impressive that calm summer evening. The colours came in seemingly never-ending cycles, finally fading from a deep orangey brown to the inky sky that was soon to be full of stars, blanketing us for the night. A slight roll from the exposed strait had us drifting off to sleep and an occasional freighter passing during the night reminded us of our exposed location. But the next morning dawned to a beautiful Gulf Island sunrise and we were grateful to have gotten to spend a night at this special spot.

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When You Go

Coordinates: 48 47.751’N, 123 03.671’W

Nearest Marina: Port Browning, 250-629-3493

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Cabbage Island Campground Info:

Accessible by water only

Five primitive campsites

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No designated tent pads, please setup your camp in a low impact area. Practice leave no trace principles

Compost toilets

No potable water

Food cache

Orca Sanctuary Zones

Southern Resident killer whales have been considered endangered species since 2005 and it is vital they are protected for their long-term survival to be ensured. In an effort to help protect these whales from accidental collisions and to allow them access to their favourite feeding grounds, orca sanctuaries, officially called Interim Sanctuary Zones (ISZ), were established in 2019. These ISZs are in effect from June 1 to November 30. No vessels are allowed inside these areas during that time period.

For more information, visit pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/fm-gp/mammals-mammiferes/whales-baleines/srkw-measures-mesures-ers-eng.html