With the day coming to a close, my wife, Arlene, and I reminisced about past visits to Hope Island State Marine Park. The sunset appeared like it had been painted in the sky. The mirror finish on Pickering Passage was reflecting all the brilliant shades of reds and oranges. We recalled a visit when we were dining alfresco, on the back deck, when two resident black-tail bucks slipped out of the forest to provide our evening entertainment as they wandered slowly up and down the beach.
We were half wayhalfway through a five-week cruise from our home port in Anacortes to Olympia at the south end of Puget Sound, and back. We had made the turn and were beginning to make our way back north. There are numerous state parks lining the shores of Puget Sound offering something for every crewmember. Our plans included visiting some of our favourites on our way home. Here are five of them.
Hope Island (Mason County)
47.11’ 8” N/122.56’ 1” W
Located in the southern portion of Pickering Pass, between Squaxin Island and Steamboat Islands, lies the undeveloped and unspoiled Hope Island. Only a few miles from the hustle and bustle of the state capital of Olympia, the serenity of the island and surrounding waters make for a relaxing escape.
Although moored to a state buoy on this visit, on a previous visit all the park buoys were occupied. As a result, we discovered good holding bottom in 20 to –25 feet of water off the southeastern shore for anchoring. If you’re unfamiliar with the area, a review of the chart is suggested as there are some shallow areas extending out from Squaxin and the current runs swift at times.
On this visit we explored the island by hiking the well-maintained trails that crisscross the old-growth forest and strolled along the wonderful sand and gravel beach that frames the island on its southern and west sides. Note that dDogs are not allowed on the island due to the sensitive wildlife areas.
During the summer months a caretaker resides on the island in a small cabin, complete with windmill, fruit orchard and a magnificent view of Mount Rainier. Located on the southern side of the island, the cabin was once the homestead of the previous residents of the island.
For our afternoon activity we rigged the spinning rods with an egg sinker and Dick Night spoon for some trolling for sea-run cutthroat along the island’s shoreline. Throughout Puget Sound fishing for cutthroats can be very productive. With a falling tide we were lucky enough to hook and release a half dozen fish. Cutthroat trout fishery in Puget Sound is a hook and release fishery, and these aggressive 12 to 18-inch fish are a tremendous amount of fun to catch on light spinning tackle or a fly rod.
Jarrell Cove
47 16′ 55″ N/ 122 53′ 13″ W
The next morning we set a course north up Pickering Passage, six and a half miles to Jarrell Cove, a favourite destination for many south sound boaters. Located at the northern end of Harstine Island, this cove is well sheltered in the worst of weather.
This is a wonderful moorage in the spring and fall. Thanks to the cove’s shelter and decreased water circulation, clear days can provide plenty of solar warming. More than once we have experienced ice on the docks in the morning and 21º C water by mid-afternoon.
Although there was plenty of open space on the park docks when we arrived, we elected to moor tie up to one of the park buoys. When visiting the parks we tend to stay off the docks, preferring to leave them for boaters with children. The docks offer 30-—amp power, a feature not found at many state parks.
When our homeport was Des Moines we spent many holiday weekends at Jarrell Cove, but the park can get a bit crowded during the spring and summer long weekends. Many boaters elect to take an extra day to arrive early to ensure moorage. Over the years that we visited regularly we often saw the same boaters year after year.
The only safe area for dropping the hook is near the mouth of the cove but it’s open to boat wakes from Pickering Passage. There is no safe anchorage inside the cove, due to lack of depth and swing room at low tide.
Jarrell Cove is a wonderful place to lace up the boots and take a hike. There are trails throughout the park and miles of rural island roads to enjoy. It’s been our experience to see many of the island’s resident deer and other wildlife during our hikes.
We also enjoy exploring the shoreline by dinghy at high tide. The main cove continues about a quarter mile faurther inland from the park, where a few homes and cabins line the shore. The smaller, secluded cove to the east of the park’s inner float is a beautiful spot to drift and take pictures of the wildlife. One of our traditions when visiting Jarrell Cove is an evening cruise through the coves and moorage in the dinghy.
There is a The small marina and store across the cove from the park. are owned and operated by Gary and Lorna Hink. Back in the early 1980s when my sons were younger, the Hinks were new owners of the marina and we spent many nights in their guest moorage to have shore power for the hot water tank and heater to bathe the boys and keep everyone warm through those cool nights. The store and fuel dock are open from Memorial Day weekend (May 27–29) through Labour Day (September 2–4). In the off-season fuel is available by appointment.
McMicken Island
47 14′ 56″ N/ 122 51′ 52″ W
Around the northern end of Harstine Island and down the eastern shoreline is small McMicken Island Marine Park. The park has five mooring buoys but there is an abundance of anchoring spots sheltered from the prevailing southwest breeze with an excellent sticky bottom.
The anchorage is all about solitude. There is not a lot to do here and that’s why we like it. It tends to be very peaceful regardless of the number of boats anchored in the area. It’s an excellent anchorage to just kick back, relax and let the day drift by.
McMicken is connected to the eastern shore of Harstine Island via a sand and gravel bar. During high tide the area appears as open navigable water between the two islands, but at low tide a 1,660-foot500-metre beach is exposed providing an excellent area to dig clams, pick oysters or beachcomb. For Arlene and me, one of life’s simple little pleasures is a nice pot of steamed clams, garlic bread and an ice-cold beverage for lunch or dinner.
There is a short trail on McMicken that leads to the high point on the island and a nice view of the anchorage and Case Inlet. But the most enjoyable part of visiting McMicken is its peacefulness.
Penrose Point
47 15′ 53″ N/ 122 44′ 39″ W
In the morning we were on the move again. Our cruise takes us around Devils Head through narrow Pit Passage into Carr Inlet and northwest to Penrose Point State Park. We consider Penrose to be one of our very favourite state parks within Puget Sound and we have spent many nights here.
The park offers plenty of moorage with a float in Lake Bay, three buoys on the west side of the park in Mayo Cove and another five buoys on the east side of Penrose Point.
Enter Mayo Cove with caution because there are twin shoals well offshore. One shoal extends northeast from Penrose Point and the second lies to the 300 yards to the west of the point in Mayo Cove and extends a half- mile out from the beach. Give these shoaling areas a wide berth by staying toward the middle of Carr Inlet until you can clearly see Lakebay Marina before turning toward Mayo Cove. Both shoals offer great beachcombing at low tide.
If your destination is the park float or Lake Bay Marina, keep an eye on the sounder as you make your final approach. The channel is shallow and doglegs into the inner bay.
We prefer to stay on the east side of Penrose Point, for a number ofa few reasons. Here it’s common to see wildlife such as deer and fox on the beach or a bald eaglesbald eagle soaring overhead., Oon a clear day there is a beautiful unobstructed view of Mount Rainier and it’s usually a bit quieter than Mayo Cove.
The buoys on the east side of the park were occupied when we arrived but it wasn’t a problem because there is excellent anchorage at either end of the park buoys, with four to five fathoms over a mud and sand bottom. With the weather forecast calling for calm winds we set the hook north of the buoys for an unobstructed view of the mountain. Had the forecast called for a southerly breeze we would have dropped the anchor south of the buoys for more protection from the wind.
Once settled, we launched the tender and went ashore to pick up the trailhead which leads to miles of well-maintained hiking trails that wind through a mixture of fir and cedar with the forest floor covered with ferns and rhododendrons. In April and Mayspring the hike is made even better with the wild flowers in bloom.
When in season, this is another park where visitors can forage for clams and oysters and in years past we have experienced good success.
That evening, as the Moon rose to the south, we were blessed with an out-of-this-world sunset that turned Mount Rainer pink and made for one of those perfect Kodak moments.
Blake Island
47 32′ 33″ N/ 122 28′ 57″ W
East through Hale Passage and north via the Tacoma Narrows and at the north end of Colvos Passage is Blake Island. This is a marine park I’ve visited many times over the past 50 years, and it’s one of the most-popular park destinations for greater Seattle boaters. A breakwater protects a small harbour on the east side of the island that offers shore power. , a feature not found at any other state marine park float.
Our plans for this trip were to moor to one of the park buoys on the west side of the island. You see it was July 4, Independence Day, and the west side of the island would provide a view of the fireworks around Yukon Harbor. During the height of the boating season we have often opted to take advantage of one of the buoys west of the island. It’s a bit more peaceful and the view of the Olympic Mountains is spectacular.
The entire island is park land , with the exception of a private facility in the harbour that features Native American salmon bakes and tribal dance entertainment. Visiting boaters can sign up for dinner and a show by contacting Argosy Cruises at 206-622-8687.
The park and provides another great opportunity for boaters to stretch their sea legs with miles of trails and beach to explore.
That evening after a dinner of barbecued ribs and all the fixings we kicked back with a cool beverage in hand and witnessed a marvelous display of fireworks by put on by the residents around Yukon Harbor.
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Although our recent visits to our favourite marine parks were during early summer, these parks have a lot to offer in the offseason and the protected waters of Puget Sound can make for a great escape. Over the past 110 years the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission has established the largest state-managed mooring system in the United States, with more than 40 marine parks and more than 8,500 feet of public moorage. Take some time and explore Washington State’s marine parks and establish your own list of favourites. For information on planning your visit check out the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission website at parks.wa.gov. www.parks.wa.gov.